The wailing Kavalapara kottaram

The early morning mist of December and the visit to the temple in the whee hours of morning when the gentle cool breeze caress us softly brings back lots of sparkling memories of childhood. My visit to Eruppe siva temple in the premises of the dilapidated Kavalapara Kottaram (near Shoranur/Cheruvanoor in Palakkad Dt.) made my mind travel to those byegone carefree days. Kavalapara Kottaram (palace), one of the most important monuments in valluvanad’s history, which once stood as a symbol of grandeur has now become a breeding ground of snakes and moths.

Kavalapara swaroopam and it’s greatnesss: The residence of the legendary landowning family (janmis) of Moopil nairs (Nair feudal rulers), Kavalapara swaroopam was a unique and prosperous state which contained  96 desams lying between Kanniampuram thodu in the east till Ongallur maadu in the west with Nila/Bharatapuzha flowing in the south. As per Kottaram Shankunni’s ‘Ithihyamala’, the people of Kavalapara swaroopam is believed to be the descendants of  Pariyapatta Pantheerakulam’s Karakkal amma, a child of Vararuchi  (a Brahmin saint) and  a Pulayar woman. The most accepted story of the origin of Kavalapara taken from the Gazette of Malabar states that the Moopil nair family acquired 12 square miles of rocky land in Nedunganadu from Cheraman Perumal. The moopil nair accepted the land finding it to be not all rocks gave the name, Kavalapara, the false rock. According to Dr.A.Sreedara Menon, the famous historian, the origin of Kavalapara swaroopam is believed to be between 1090 to 1102 AD. The 17000 acres land of Kavalapara swaroopam under Valluvanad and erstwhile Cochin state had a large portion of paddy fields and major portion of it was under that peculiar sort of land tenure known only to Malabar and called Kanom tenure. The tallest and powerful komban (tusker) Chakravorty belonged to Kavalapara moopil nair. Kavalapara rulers were one among the very few Nair rulers who got the ‘kottaram‘ status to their wide spread mansion. This kottaram has attracted many tourists and witnessed so many historical incidents. However, today’s generation cannot even see one tenth part of this royal palace. During the Mappila rebellion in 1921, various people from different parts came seeking help to the kavalapara kottaram. The Moopil nair without any hestitation provided 10 cents of land to the needy and also constructed homes for them. The rich legacy of Kavalappara swaroopam even threatened the Zamorins in Malabar. The biggest pooram (festival) in Malabar used to take place in the Aryankav temple in Kavalapara, which was owned by the Kavalapara moopil nair family. The handmade horses or kuthiras from 69 desams worshiping the goddess is the peculiarity of this famous pooram. The famous Eruppe siva temple with syamboo  siva linga  was also built by the Kavalapara moopil nair. The architect of modern Kavalapara is Col. Appukuttanunni moopil nair who was the ruler from 1910 to 1925.

The fall of Kavalapara swaroopam and kottaram: The riches to rags transition of Kavalapara swaroopam and kottaram began after the death of the head of the family, Karakatt Kumaran Raman Kochunni Moopil Nair in 1964. The marumakkathayam system (matrilineal inheritance) which prevailed in Kerala created disputes among the family members, which led to court cases since 1967 and now the remnants of Kottaram and its surroundings are administered by the receiver. Sri O.P Balakrishnan in his book, ‘Kavalapara charithravum paithrakavum’ has reaveled that the court cases of kottaram has reached even the privy council of London and even the UK law students have ‘Kavalapara papers’ in their curriculum to study. The main buildings of the palace have been auctioned in 1980s and the only left is the Malika chuvadu and Ootupara (Dining hall). These two left buildings whispers to us many hidden tales surrounding the Kavalapara swaroopam and kottaram.

No proper measures have been taken by the state governments to preserve this valuable heritage. The archealogical department should take appropriate action as early as possible to conserve atleast the left out structures as this ruined kottaram and the neglected 10000 rare records throws light on Kerala’s medieval history.